Touring along the river

A few years ago we had the marvelous opportunity to drive along the tow path of one of the grand canals stretching across Ireland. Previously, it was along the Rhine in Germany, and a similar trip along the Seine in France, and twice along the Estuary called the Thames that meanders through London. They all share similarities (and yes, differences) between them, and the Great Miami in Ohio.

The larger rivers have eons of history; often passing villages that are thousands of years old, and the castles and keeps that sweep up from the river are often 800 years old or more.

Here in Ohio, ‘civilization’ as we know it is barely 300 years old; in fact this summer, Miami County will celebrate their 200th birthday; a babe in arms by European standards; but older than counties in 33 other of these United States.

The civilization that sprouted here in the early 1800’s was generally the same that swarmed around any river crossing in Europe centuries earlier; a small Pub strategically placed by a ferry or shallow river crossing to ease the thirst of pioneers trudging through, or tradesman and merchants with wagons of goods pulling through the rutted paths and muddy trails that connected river crossings with each other. These paths, often also cow paths for farmers, grew into the roads and streets we clog with gas engine trucks but the path is often close to the original.

Here in Troy, Overfield Tavern was an early example- near the shallow crossing of the Great Miami that is now the railroad bridge and just a block from the Market Street / Rt 55 river crossing (now in its’ fourth generation of road bridge).

If you look at a map of villages in Europe or the United States, you will see these stopping points that have grown into clusters of cities. But look carefully, and you can discern how fast a horse could walk just by looking at the map. Small towns are 10-15 miles apart depending on terrain; about what a wagon could do in a half day, so they needed a place to stop for lunch.

Larger towns are 30 miles distant; a full days’ travels; and major cities 60 miles apart- a two day journey apart, but only a full day for the people clustered around them.

Cincinnati to Middletown to Dayton to Troy then to Sidney, and beyond… all about 30 miles apart. Dayton and Troy both East to Springfield, following the terrain of the valleys.

From Troy it’s about ten miles South to Tipp, North to Piqua, West to Covington.

From Piqua, East to Fletcher, West to Bradford.

The patterns are obvious. So as you drive along, from town to town, slow down; and envision that ten mile spin as a full mornings’ work; and the 1 hour drive to the Ohio river crossing as a full day endeavor. It will bring a new appreciation for the ways the founders of Miami County traveled and lived.

Along those lines, nutritionists are the Ohio State University have been studying eating habits of Ohio farmers and villagers; and looking back over time to see what is causing us to swell up and grow more in width than the five inches in average height we have achieved since Miami County was founded.

They found that the average Ohio farmer needed 8,500 calories a day 200 years ago, to keep their weight up and stamina for the fields. We, on the other hand need barely more than 2,500 but tend to eat 3,000 calories or more per day. Evidently using the WII hand controller burns fewer calories than pushing a 200 pound metal plow behind an Ox team for 12 hours.

The travels through Europe however were different in one other respect, the small, fresh bakeries along the route; often inside, or next to Pubs were in evidence in nearly every town. America may have had these beacons of yeast and Crust, but today, most so-called bread is purchased in plastic at Kroger; made by machines and hauled in for our ‘enriched flour’ fix; and specially formulated to be soft and mushy. Most kids today can’t even stand the barely brown crust of what Wonder tries to pass off as bread. European towns have not lost the personal touch. Fresh baked breads, rolls and pastries waft their aromas from every village and street corner all along the river paths.

There is hope however, in Miami Valley I have discovered several great local alternatives that mimic the old fashioned flavour, taste and texture of European bakeries. In Troy, BakeHouse Breads with a European bread oven makes daily wonders of fascinating different kinds; with specialties for every day of the week and favorites every day. Their thick, rich round breads and long thin baquettes are the perfect pairing for a wonderful meal; and even better when enjoyed while walking or biking along the bike patsh of the County.

The Troy Bike Path is nearing completion, and one can almost avoid all paved roads to reach the best pastry bakery in Miami Valley, Dobo’s Delights in downtown Piqua. a block from what was their shallow river crossing before the Conservancy district dredged to make the levees.

This old fashioned shop serves the plebian needs for fresh fried donuts made from yeast and cake dough that was rising at 3am. Yet wander past the front counter to the terrific Hungarian delights that are truly special. Our Hungarian foreign exchange student raves about food from home.

So be adventurous, explore the Valley, and throw off the yoke of Wonder White Bread; as you experiment with the wholesome, crunchy, sweet texture of fresh baked goodness in Miami County.

Ps- Use real, unsalted butter.